PROS ONLY: HOW TO PLAN THE PERFECT ONE-DAY VIA FERRATA CLIMBING TOUR ON THE STUBAI GLACIER

08/18/2022

Rewarding, lofty climbing on the panorama mountain: only 15 minutes from the Fernau mid-station on the Stubai Glacier, pros with via ferrata experience find real challenges with a crowning reward with the Fernau and Fernau Express via ferratas.

5 GOOD REASONS FOR YOUR VIA FERRATA TOUR ON THE STUBAI GLACIER

Whether you are living in the Stubai Valley, are on holiday there or want to travel from the region by bus or train: The Stubai Glacier with its two challenging via ferratas is a rewarding destination for all fans of this sport. What makes the Fernau and Fernau Express so special?

1. SPECIAL ROCK QUALITY

The old crag offers the most grippy rock in the Stubai: the Stubai primary rock scores with a great structure as well as with fine holds and footholds.

2. PURE NATURE

Along the via ferrata you can for example admire some small Swiss stone pine trees.

3. VIA FERRATA FIRST, SUMMIT BLISS SECOND

The the exit of the two routes it is a mere 200 metres to the summit of the 2,631m-high Egesengrat. From there you enjoy a fantastic view of the surrounding mountains.

4. REFRESHMENT ON HOT SUMMER DAYS

When descending from the Egesengrat you pass two lakes perfect for a long break.

5. EXERCISE VIA FERRATAS

At the entry to the two via ferratas and at the Dresdner Hütte you can warm-up to check whether you are ready for the bigger challenges.

The via ferratas on the Stubai Glacier are not suitable for beginners and only conditionally for children from 10+ years. You wonder why?

KLETTERSTEIG FERNAU EXPRESS

Der extrem schwierige Klettersteig in der Schwierigkeitsstufe E galt bis in die 2000er Jahre als einer der anspruchsvollsten Tirols. Passagen im senkrechten Fels ohne Ausstiegsmöglichkeit und überhängende Sequenzen erfordern durchgehend eine sehr gute Klettertechnik und machen aufgrund des Fehlens von Tritten das Tragen von Kletterschuhen notwendig. Laut Patrick Ribis für Kinder definitiv nicht geeignet.

Climbers should also be aware of this before they start: Whoever climbs in must climb through - climbers are constantly coming from behind: climbing against the "one-way street" inevitably leads to the endangerment of others. 

Patrick's safety advice: "When climbing, you should keep a safety distance of at least one belay segment. That way, the person in front has enough space in case of a fall.

"SHOULD I REALLY DO IT OR SHOULD I LET I BE?

“Yes and no” is definitely the wrong answer. If you are unsure, trust an experienced guide such as Patrick Ribis: It always makes sense to book the comfort of a mountain guide. Especially for children over the age of ten, extra safety is necessary and via ferrata newcomers should not venture on Fernau or Fernau Express alone. But also experienced C and D climbers can look forward to interesting additional information about the via ferratas in the care of a local mountain guide. And especially for those planning a day trip: a little abseiling or climbing on the side is always included. This way, visitors can not only hone their skills in peace and quiet, but will also simply have more from their on the rocks.”

NOTE THE WEATHER

If you are aware of your own abilities and do not overestimate or overtax yourself, you will find the Fernau and Fernau Express via ferratas to be two altogether extremely appealing routes. The only prerequisite: the weather must be right! "The via ferratas are only to be climbed in fine, dry weather; if there is a risk of thunderstorms, I recommend extremely defensive planning due to the danger of lightning striking the steel rope; entering during a thunderstorm is life-threatening!"

WHAT TO PACK FOR YOUR VIA FERRATA TOUR ON THE STUBAI GLACIER

Apart from the appropriate basic equipment, which includes a climbing harness, a via ferrata set, gloves and a climbing helmet as well as suitable footwear - for the via ferrata Fernau mountain boots are sufficient, the via ferrata Fernau Express requires climbing shoes - you should also not forget to bring a snack and swimming things, according to mountain guide Patrick Ribis: "On the descent from the Egesengrat back to the middle station, it is worth making a longer stop at a small lake along the way, where you can enjoy a well-earned snack in wonderful surroundings."

THE ULTIMATE  PACKING LIST ACCORDING TO MOUNTAIN GUIDE PATRICK RIBIS

  • Shoes that meet the overall requirement (mountain boots or climbing shoes for the Fernau Express).
  • Climbing harness
  • Via ferrata set
  • Gloves
  • Helmet
  • First aid kit
  • Mobile (charged!)
  • Sufficient to drink (2-3 litres, depending on the length of the tour)
  • Provisions
  • Rain protection
  • Sun protection
  • Bivouac bag
  • Rucksack

 

The complete checklist for via ferratas for download

 

ADVANCED CLIMBERS ONLY

On the Stubai Glacier you are in high alpine terrain. This makes precise tour planning in advance indispensable. You should also always pay attention to the current weather conditions. These can change quickly and make it impossible to climb the via ferrata.

VIA FERRATS NOTICES

The facilities of the Stubaier Gletscherbahnen are located in high alpine terrain. High alpine dangers are to be expected away from the immediate station areas. The climbing routes and via ferratas available in the area are not part of the services offered by the Stubaier Gletscherbahnen. In any case, it is necessary to inform oneself about the difficulty of the tour, the demands on the climber as well as the route and route conditions before starting a climbing tour. The climbing routes and via ferratas are not maintained by the Stubaier Gletscherbahnen. The Stubaier Gletscherbahnen do not accept any liability whatsoever for accidents on the via ferratas and in the alpine terrain outside the station areas. In adverse conditions (snow, storm, fog, etc.) the via ferratas and routes become considerably more challenging or impassable! In case of thunderstorms there is a danger to life. We recommend a personal tour consultation at the mountain guide offices.

Local mountain guide