Pros only: How to plan your perfect one-day tour of the via ferrata on the Stubai Glacier

Rewarding, lofty climbing on the panorama mountain: Only 15 minutes from the Fernau mid-station at the Stubai Glacier, via ferrata pros can find a real challenge with a crowning reward.

5 good reasons for your via ferrata tour on the Stubai Glacier

Whether you are living in the Stubai Valley, spend your holidays there or want to arrive from the region by bus or train: The Stubai Glacier with its two demanding via ferratas is a rewarding destination for all fans of this sport. What makes the Fernau and Fernau Express different from similar tours?

1. Special rock quality

The old climbing crag offers the most grippy rock in the Stubai: the Stubai primary rock scores with a great structure and fine holds and footholds.

2. Pure nature

You can admire some small stone pine trees along the via ferrata.

3. Via ferrata first, summit bliss afterwards

From the exit of the two routes, it is only 100 metres to the summit of the Egesengrat with an altitude of 2,631 metres. From there you enjoy marvellous views of the surrounding mountain world.

4. A refreshing experience on hot summer days

On your way down from the Egesengrat, you pass two lakes that are perfect for a longer break.

5. Exercise via ferratas

To warm up and to test whether you are up to the challenge, you can test your skills at the entry of the via terratas and at the Dresdner Hütte.

The via ferratas on the Stubai Glacier are not suitable for beginners and only suitable to a limited extent for children over the age of ten. You wonder why?

Two people on a mountain summit

Via Ferrata Fernau

With difficulty level C (in two places even D), the via ferrata Fernau is classified as difficult to very difficult. The pure climbing height is 200 metres, for which you should allow a climbing time of about 1.5 hours. The route is demanding and has some almost vertical sections. "A fun tour," says Patrick Ribis, mountain guide and Stubai local.

THE ROUTE

Yellow via ferrata and hiking signposts

Via ferrata Fernau Express

The extremely difficult via ferrata in difficulty level E was considered one of the most demanding in Tyrol until the 2000s. Passages in vertical rock without an exit and overhanging sequences require very good climbing technique throughout and make it necessary to wear climbing shoes due to the lack of steps. According to Patrick Ribis, definitely not suitable for children.

THE ROUTE

Climbers should also be aware of this before they start: Whoever climbs in must climb through - climbers are constantly coming from behind: climbing against the "one-way street" inevitably leads to endangering others. 

Patrick's safety advice: "When climbing, you should keep a safety distance of at least one belay segment. This way, the person in front has enough free space in case of a fall."

Should I really do it or should I leave it alone?

"No" is clearly the wrong answer here. If you're not sure, trust an experienced guide like Patrick Ribis: "It always makes sense to book the comfort of a mountain guide. Especially with children over the age of ten, extra belaying is necessary and via ferrata novices should not venture on Fernau or Fernau Express alone. But also experienced C and D climbers can look forward to interesting additional information about the via ferratas in the care of a local mountain guide. And especially if you are planning a day tour: a little abseiling or climbing on the side is always included. This way, visitors can not only hone their skills in peace and quiet, but simply take more away from their day on the rock."

Watch the weather

If you are aware of your own abilities and do not overestimate or overtax yourself, you will find the Fernau and Fernau Express via ferratas to be two altogether extremely appealing routes. The only prerequisite: the weather must be right! "The via ferratas are only to be climbed in fine, dry weather. If there is a risk of thunderstorms, I recommend extremely defensive planning due to the danger of lightning striking the steel cable; entering during a thunderstorm is life-threatening!"

Egesengrat mountain lake

How to pack for your via ferrata day tour on the Stubai Glacier

Apart from the appropriate basic equipment, which includes a climbing harness, via ferrata set, gloves and climbing helmet as well as the right footwear - for the via ferrata Fernau, mountain boots are sufficient, the via ferrata Fernau Express requires climbing shoes - according to mountain guide Patrick Ribis, you should also not forget a snack: "On the descent from the Egesengrat back to the middle station, a longer stopover at a small lake along the way is worthwhile, where you can enjoy a well-earned snack in wonderful surroundings."

THE ULTIMATE PACKING LIST BY MOUNTAIN GUIDE PATRICK RIBIS

  • Shoes that meet the overall requirement (mountain boot or climbing shoe for the Fernau Express)
  • Climbing harness
  • Via ferrata set
  • Gloves
  • Climbing helmet
  • small first aid kit
  • Mobile phone (charged!)
  • Sufficient liquid (2 - 3 litres, depending on the length of the tour)
  • Food and drink
  • Rain protection
  • Sun protection
  • Bivouac sack
  • Backpack

 

Download the complete via ferrata checklist

FOR ADVANCED CLIMBERS ONLY

On the Stubai Glacier you are in high alpine terrain. This makes precise tour planning in advance indispensable. You should also always pay attention to the current weather conditions. These can change quickly and make it impossible to climb the via ferrata.

NOTICE FOR CLIMBERS

The Stubaier Gletscherbahn lifts are in high-alpine terrain. Unless you are in immediate proximity of the stations, you must expect high-alpine dangers. The climbing routes and the via ferratas are not part of the offer of the Stubaier Gletscherbahn lifts. The depiction of the climbing routes and via ferratas is not sufficient for tour planning. It is absolutely necessary to inform on the level of difficulty of the respective tour, the requirements on the climbers and the nature and quality of the routes and paths before embarking on a climbing tour. The Stubaier Gletscherbahn assume no liability whatsoever for accidents happening on the via ferratas and in the alpine terrain outside of the lift stations. In case of detrimental conditions (snow, storm, fog etc.) the via ferratas and routes are considerably more difficult to climb or even unclimbable! There is life danger during thunderstorms! We recommend a personal tour consultancy in the mountain guide offices.

Logo of The Freeride Center Stubai

Local mountain guide

Patrick Ribis | THE FREERIDE CENTER

+43 650 560 8797
www.freeride.center

Mehr dazu

ski tickets
buy online

ski tickets
×

Intersport rent

Ski rental
×

Search & Book