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Via ferratas and climbing routes
The sun warms the rocks and lights up the summits. On the Stubai Glacier the eyes of climbing enthusiasts shine too.Whoever wants to conquer the rocks up there, can do so on the via ferratas and sports climbing routes of the Fernau climbing park. You can get to the access areas near the Fernau mid-station in 15 minutes.
VIA FERRATE AT THE STUBAI GLACIER
Name: Via ferrata Fernau
Difficulty level: C (two D-sections)
Orientation: East
Start: 2.350 m
Summit: 2.631 m
Steel rope belay: approx. 350 m
Pure climbing time: approx. 1.5 h (200 m altitude difference)
Access from Fernau middle station: approx. 15 min.
Ascent from the Gamsgarten valley station: approx. 1.5 hrs.
Descent to the Dresdner Hütte: approx. 30 min.
Season: May-October, depending on snow- and weather conditions
DIFFICULT - VERY DIFFICULT VIA FERRATA ON THE STUBAI GLACIER
A paradise for advanced via ferrata climbers, who want to enjoy the view of the Stubai Valley from the granite faces! The Fernau via ferrata is located near the Fernau mid-station and near the Dresdner Hütte at an altitude of 2,300m on the Stubai Glacier. 200m of altitude gain are conquered in about 1.5 hours climbing time. There is a steel cable throughout and the route leads through very exposed and steep terrain up to the Egesengrat at an altitude of 2,631m. The route is one of the most beautiful and classy routes of the Alps. From the end of the protective cable you follow the cairs for a few minutes to get to the Egesengrat ridge. To climb downhill to the Dresdner Hütte leads along a marked path and takes about 30 minutes:
Download: Topo Via Ferrate Fernau
VIA FERRATA FERNAU EXPRESS
Name: Via Ferrata Fernau Express
Difficulty level: E
Facing: East
Access: 2,370m
Summit: 2,631m
Steel rope: approx. 350m
Net climbing time: approx. 1-1.5 hrs. (200m of altitude gain)
Access from Fernau mid-station: approx. 15 minutes
Access from Gamsgarten valley station: approx. 1.5 hrs.
Descent to the Dresdner Hütte: approx. 30 min.
Best season: May - October, snow depending
EXTREMELY DIFFICULT VIA FERRATA FOR VERY ATHLETIC CLIMBERS
The Fernau Express via ferrata is for experience fans of this type of climbing who are looking for a challenge in rapid passages in vertical rock without exit options. With a difficulty level of E, it ranked among the most difficult via ferratas in the Tyrol until the 2000s.Unlike the route of its little brother, the Fernau via ferrata, the Fernau Express’ route requires very good climbing skills throughout. Footholds and holds can only be found in the chimney passage and in the overhanging section. Natural features such as ledges, bands and cracks are cleverly used in the routing. Friction climbing is the keyword here: in the small-grip granite with predominantly vertical sections, skill and strength are required, which reserves the via ferrata mainly for experts. The Fernau Express via ferrata is not suitable for children.
Download: Topo Via Ferrata Fernau Express
SPORTS CLIMBING AT THE STUBAI GLACIER
Climbing Park Fernau
Number of routes and difficulty: 1 III, 3 IV, 1 V, 1 VI, 2 VII-
Route lengths: 10-150 m
Height: 2.400 m
Exposition: south-east
Equipment: sports climbing route with bolts
Season: May-October (depending on snow and weather)
Climbing Park Zollhütte:
Number of routes: 12
Route lenghts: 10-15 m
Difficulty:4a - 6c+
Exposition: south
Equipment: sports climbing route with bolts
Season: May-October (depending on snow and weather)
SPORT CLIMBING ROUTES
Climbing park Fernau: Sport climbing on the Stubai Glacier is a special experience for climbers due to its high alpine beauty and optimal conditions. The sport climbing routes on the Egesengrat offer difficulty levels 3b to 6c on one to six rope lenght. The routes are secured with bolts. The descent is via the via ferrata or abseiling over the route. Relatively steep routes in grippy rock. The short distances of the intermediate belays are also very beneficial for climbing beginners. The best season is between May and October (depending on weather and snow conditions).
Download Topo Fernau Climbing Park.
Climbing park Zollhaus: Only a few minutes walk above the Dresdner Hütte is also the Kletterpark Zollhaus. The south-facing climbing garden consists of 12 short climbing routes of 10-15 meters (difficulty 4a-6c+).
Download Topo Climbing Park Zollhaus.
Recommendations for tackling via ferratas
- Plan carefully!
- Adjust your goal to your personal skills!
- Use full, standardised equipment (harness, via ferrata set, helmet, mobile, first aid kit)!
- Don’t get into the route if there is danger of a thunderstorm – risk of death! Rain, wetness and cold increase the risk of falling.
- Check steel ropes and the anchors critically! Do not access closed via ferratas.
- Partner check at the access point! Harness fastening, connection of the via ferrata set with the harness, helmet.
- Keep sufficient distance! Only one person may climb between two fixed spots.
- Clear communication when overtaking!
- Pay attention to falling rocks and avoid rockfall by climbing carefully!
- Respect our nature and environment! Avoid rubbish and noise.
Based on the recommendations of the Austrian Alpine Club. Download the complete checklist.
Local mountain guides
6167 Neustift
Österreich
Notice for climbers
The Stubaier Gletscherbahn lifts are in high-alpine terrain. Unless you are in immediate proximity of the stations, you must expect high-alpine dangers. The climbing routes and the via ferratas are not part of the offer of the Stubaier Gletscherbahn lifts. The depiction of the climbing routes and via ferratas is not sufficient for tour planning. It is absolutely necessary to inform on the level of difficulty of the respective tour, the requirements on the climbers and the nature and quality of the routes and paths before embarking on a climbing tour. The Stubaier Gletscherbahn assume no liability whatsoever for accidents happening on the via ferratas and in the alpine terrain outside of the lift stations. In case of detrimental conditions (snow, storm, fog etc.) the via ferratas and routes are considerably more difficult to climb or even unclimbable! There is life danger during thunderstorms! We recommend a personal tour consultancy in the mountain guide offices.