Climbing in Austria

Numerous via ferratas and climbing routes

The sun warms the rocks and lights up the summits. On the Stubai Glacier the eyes of climbing enthusiasts shine too.Whoever wants to conquer the rocks up there, can do so on the via ferratas and sports climbing routes of the Fernau climbing park. You can get to the access areas near the Fernau mid-station in 15 minutes.

Exercise via ferratas
Exercise via ferratas
Short exercise via ferratas, 20 - 30m-long training via ferratas, directly at the Dresdner Hütte. Difficulty level A to E
Fernau via ferrata
Fernau via ferrata
Exposed via ferrata at a difficulty level of C, 2 sections with difficulty D. Climbing: approx. 1.5 hours
Fernau Express
Fernau Express
Extremely difficult via ferrata only for experienced climbers (difficulty level D to E). Climbing: 1 to 1.5 hours.
Modrá obloha a horské panorama s ferratou Fernau v pohledu
Sportkletterrouten Fernau
Seven climbing routes with a difficulty level from III - VII as well as several alpine climbing routes.
Ice climbing
Ice climbing tower right in the ski area at the Gamsgarten mountain station.
TOPO_Fernau_Klettersteig.pdf
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Topo-Fernau-Express.pdf
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TW_Servicecheckliste_Klettersteige.pdf
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Klettern-dresdner-huette-stubaier-gletscher-2021_.jpg
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KLETTERSTEIG FERNAU IM STUBAITAL

Fernau via ferrata
Difficulty Level:
C (two sections D)
Facing: East
Access: 2,350m
Summit: 2,631m
Secured by a steel cable: approx. 350m
Net climbing time: approx. 1.5 hours (200m of altitude gain)
Approach from Fernau mid-station: approx. 15 min.
Approach from Gamsgarten valley station: approx. 1.5 hrs. 
Descent to the Dresdner Hütte: approx. 30 min.
Best season: May - Oktober, snow depending

A paradise for advanced via ferrata climbers, who want to enjoy the view of the Stubai Valley from the granite faces!

The Fernau via ferrata is located near the Fernau mid-station and near the Dresdner Hütte at an altitude of 2,300m on the Stubai Glacier. 200m of altitude gain are conquered in about 1.5 hours climbing time.

There is a steel cable throughout and the route leads through very exposed and steep terrain up to the Egesengrat at an altitude of 2,631m. The route is one of the most beautiful and classy routes of the Alps.

From the end of the protective cable you follow the cairs for a few minutes to get to the Egesengrat ridge.

To climb downhill to the Dresdner Hütte leads along a marked path and takes about 30 minutes:

 

Here you can download the topo of the Fernau via ferrata.

 

KLETTERSTEIG FERNAU EXPRESS

Difficulty level: E 
Facing: Est
Access: 2,370m
Summit: 2,631m
Steel rope: approx. 350m
Net climbing time: approx. 1-1.5 hrs. (200m of altitude gain)
Access from Fernau mid-station: approx. 15 minutes
Access from Gamsgarten valley station: approx. 1.5 hrs. 
Descent to the Dresdner Hütte: approx. 30 min.
Best season: May - October, snow depending

The Fernau Express via ferrata is for experience fans of this type of climbing who are looking for a challenge in rapid passages in vertical rock without exit options. With a difficulty level of E, it ranked among the most difficult via ferratas in the Tyrol until the 2000s.  

Unlike the route of its little brother, the Fernau via ferrata, the Fernau Express’ route requires very good climbing skills throughout.

Footholds and holds can only be found in the chimney passage and in the overhanging section. Natural features such as ledges, bands and cracks are cleverly used in the routing.

Friction climbing is the keyword here: in the small-grip granite with predominantly vertical sections, skill and strength are required, which reserves the via ferrata mainly for experts.

The Fernau Express via ferrata is not suitable for children.

SPORTKLETTERN IM STUBAITAL

Number of routes: 1 III, 3 IV, 1 V, 1 VI, 2 VII-
Route lengths: 10 to 150m
Altitude: 2,400m
Facing: South-East
Equipment: sports climbing route with bolts

Season: May to October

Sport climbing on the Stubai Glacier is a special experience for climbers due to the area’s high-alpine beauty and perfect conditions offered.

The climbing routes on the Egesengrat ridge are one- to four-pitch routes at difficulty levels of III to VII. They are secured by bolts. Relatively steep routes in good rock.

Bolts in short intervals make them perfect also for beginners.

The best season is between May and October.

Recommendations for tackling via ferratas

  1. Plan carefully! 
  2. Adjust your goal to your personal skills!
  3. Use full, standardised equipment (harness, via ferrata set, helmet, mobile, first aid kit)!
  4. Don’t get into the route if there is danger of a thunderstorm – risk of death! Rain, wetness and cold increase the risk of falling.
  5. Check steel ropes and the anchors critically! Do not access closed via ferratas.
  6. Partner check at the access point! Harness fastening, connection of the via ferrata set with the harness, helmet.
  7. Keep sufficient distance! Only one person may climb between two fixed spots.
  8. Clear communication when overtaking! 
  9. Pay attention to falling rocks and avoid rockfall by climbing carefully!
  10. Respect our nature and environment! Avoid rubbish and noise.

 

 

Based on the recommendations of the Austrian Alpine Club. Download the complete checklist.

Local mountain guides

Bergführerbüro Stubai Alpin
Dorf 5
6167 Neustift
Österreich

Notice for climbers

The Stubaier Gletscherbahn lifts are in high-alpine terrain. Unless you are in immediate proximity of the stations, you must expect high-alpine dangers. The climbing routes and the via ferratas are not part of the offer of the Stubaier Gletscherbahn lifts. The depiction of the climbing routes and via ferratas is not sufficient for tour planning. It is absolutely necessary to inform on the level of difficulty of the respective tour, the requirements on the climbers and the nature and quality of the routes and paths before embarking on a climbing tour. The Stubaier Gletscherbahn assume no liability whatsoever for accidents happening on the via ferratas and in the alpine terrain outside of the lift stations. In case of detrimental conditions (snow, storm, fog etc.) the via ferratas and routes are considerably more difficult to climb or even unclimbable! There is life danger during thunderstorms! We recommend a personal tour consultancy in the mountain guide offices.